It’s that time of year again. When you wake up in the morning and have to scrape your windows before you drive to work in the dark and you are lucky to see daylight when you get home from work. But there is one good thing about this time of year. It is going to start forming ice. After the ice starts it is time to break out the ice fishing gear.

Before any ice fishing season you should go through all your equipment and test it at home before venturing out on any lake. This will save you many headaches and cold fingers out on the lake.

First of all I check my ice fishing clothes and wash them before the season starts. I make sure my long underwear is in good condition as well as all my outer wear. Make sure to patch any holes or replace it before the season because there is nothing like a nice December wind blowing through you outerwear right onto your clothes to put a chill into you. Make sure you have a fishing towel. I prefer to use a golf type towel so I can hang it up in my ice shack so the heater keeps it nice and warm and dries it faster. This is actually a necessity on the ice so you can dry your hand after handling fish or minnows. This will keep your hands a whole lot warmer. Invest in some quality socks. My favorite socks are Black mountains from The Gene Edwards Company. They are fairly expensive but well worth the money. They stay up on your leg even after walking great distances and wick the sweat away from you while retaining the heating qualities. Good quality outwear is a must as well. Try to get something with at least a waterproof lower because of the constant kneeling in the snow and water near the holes. Boots and gloves are very critical too. I prefer Rocky and La Crosse boots. I have owned both and they are both warm and comfortable. Also pick up a pair of ice cleats especially for early ice when there isn’t any snow yet.

After you get your clothes ready and make sure everything is in working order including the zippers and any tie downs it is time for the fishing equipment.

I check all the assemblies of my rod and reel combos. Make sure the reel is securely attached to the rod. Then change all the line on the reels. I use Berkley’s Micro Ice line. Make sure the reels are lubed and ready for the season so you don’t get unwanted squeaks or reel hitches on the ice. The frozen air will accentuate the problems.

Tip-ups should have their braided line changed at least every other year. Use one that won’t freeze up or kink.Then tie some new monofilament leaders. I prefer a 2-4 foot leader. I also make my own steel leaders for northern fishing as well using braided wire. Make extra leaders up ahead of time so you don’t have to tie on hooks out on the ice and you can just unclip it and put a new one on. Make sure to use a good swivel for you tip-ups as well. Check the grease in the tip-ups to save it from freezing up on the ice too. Also check the condition of the flags. If the flags are torn or loose on the shaft replace them.

Now that your rods and tip-ups are ready to go it is time for the ice shack. If you have a portable shack set it up in the garage or your yards and make sure the sled is in good condition and patch any holes or trouble spots. Check the canvas thoroughly. Patch any holes in the canvas and spray it down with a water repellant spray to make sure that water doesn’t leak in as much as possible. Check all the pivot points and tubing as well.

On a permanent shack you will want to check the runners and make sure they are solid and not rotting or cracked. Check the walls and make sure they are not damaged as well as the windows. Check the floor to make sure there are no weak spots or rotten boards. Replace all broken or week parts of the shack.

Ice augers are one of the most important items in ice fishing. There are several types to choose from. I usually use a spud bar early in the year but mainly to check ice conditions every few feet. Ice can for very unevenly and safety is first priority. I like to use a hand Lazer auger early in the year or when fishing in large groups of pan fisherman because some are offended by power augers even though I don’t personally feel they affect the fish even in shallow water. I have drilled hundreds of holes in as shallow as 3 feet and seen fish under my hole right after drilling with my Jiffy power auger.  I do use a power auger most of the year because I drill many holes per day to find and follow fish as they move. The main thing to check on the augers and spud bar is to make sure they are sharp. Any blades should be replaced or sharpened before the season start. Power augers should have new gas put in them and a new spark plug and then test to make sure it is running properly. If it is not running properly take it to a small engine repair shop for a tune-up to insure a year of good use. It is a lot better to know your auger will work before you drag it out on the ice and it doesn’t run. I always carry an extra spark plug with me too as they tend to foul out occasionally.

Once your augers are ready it is time for the rest of your ice fishing gear. Make sure to have your tackle ready to go. Untangle all you tackle and sharpen hooks or replace them with new ones. Also on new jigs punch the eyes out before putting them in you tackle box to save time and possible cold fingers having to do it on the ice.

Next up is your heater. Check all the connections and test your heater. Make sure the heater is in good working order. If it flames up get it serviced so it will run properly.

Another useful tool on the ice is a lanyard. I put a jaw spreader, depth finder, clippers, jig eye cleaner, and forceps on them for easy use. Other useful tools a 5 gallon bucket for your fish which I line with a garbage bag so I can remove the fish easily after fishing and it doesn’t make a mess out of my bucket. Grocery bags work well for this. Check the condition of your bait bucket for leaks or cracks. Make sure your minnow scoop is in good order as well. They are very cheap to replace. I prefer the floating nets so I don’t have to stick my hands as far into the water.

If you have a Vexilar or Aqua View make sure to charge the batteries and test them before taking them out to the lake.

After you have everything ready to go and head out for the lake be extremely careful to be sure that the ice is safe. I don’t like to go onto ice thinner than 3 inches. Make sure to test the ice every few feet to insure safe travel especially if you are the first one out.

Remember think safety first, be considerate to others out on the ice, don’t leave any trash out on the ice even if it isn’t yours, and if you check all your equipment first you will have a safe successful season.

writteb by Dale Helgeson from outdoor experience

Early season ice fishing can be hard to beat. It seems panfish, as well as predator fish like walleye, northern pike, and bass, are a lot more willing to cooperate in the early part of the season than in mid-January or February.

While early ice usually produces the best action of the winter, I wasn’t among the first on the ice. I usually waited a little bit to be sure of the ice conditions. Two inches of ice will usually hold a man weighing about 180 pounds. But keep in mind that even though the ice may be two or three inches in one spot, it may only be half an inch 10 feet away.

Three-to-four inches of ice will hold a couple of guys walking single file. Maintain a reasonable distance from one another if ice conditions are like that and carry a rope along if you should run into a problem. Also remember, don’t panic if you break through.

 As I mentioned before, the early part of the season is probably the best. If you fish for panfish, use as light a line as you dare. Use small teardrop jigs and ice flies for both crappie and bluegill and tip them with waxworms. Crappie like minnows too, so remember to have an assortment of live bait.

One item a lot of ice fishermen rely on is a Vexilar. Vexilars help locate fish, show how deep they are, will mark your bait and even allow you to see the fish take your bait. Panfish aren’t very aggressive during the winter and will quickly drop bait. That’s why Vexilars or other electronics like Aquaviews are handy during the winter.

and once you locate them you should have a hand held GPS system  so you will know right were to go your next outing on the Ice.  heres some cool info on GPS http://www.autonavigationgps.com

 Northern pike are one of the more popular species during the winter. They are fairly easy to get, and don’t require much work. Using large shiners or smelt under a tip-up will usually get you some action during the daylight hours. Use braided dacron line, and steel leaders to prevent bite offs.

Walleye require more finesse. Early and late in the day is usually better, but the best bites will be at night. A lot of guys will use tip- up lights attached to their tip-ups for them, and medium shiners, or fathead minnows are the bait of choice for walleye. Many people will use Windlass tip-ups because they have arms that will move up and down in the wind to give it some jigging action.

So, if you have put away your gun or bow for the year, and are anxious to get out fishing and have some fun, give the early ice a shot. There isn’t anything much better than getting a mess of fish out of cold water for a fish fry.

We’ll apparently it wasn’t.

MUSKEGON COUNTY MI WZZM13.com – After hours of pondering, it finally took an excavator to remove a Chevy Truck partially submerged in Wolf Lake.

The Muskegon County Sheriff’s Department tells WZZM 13 News the truck was removed after chainsaws cut away the ice that had formed around the truck.

Then, an excavator and chains pulled the truck out of the hole, and back onto a safer surface.

The weather actually helped remove the truck. The freezing rain anticipated for Sunday wasn’t as bad as expected, so further freezing did not happen.

The warm-up in temperatures may be to blame for the unusual sight Saturday.

Around 1:00p.m. a truck fell through the ice on Wolf lake.

There was a local ice fishing tournament going on at the time, but many wonder why the truck was there in the first place.

Some believe the driver was heading to an ice fishing spot.

Many think he sank because the warm-up was melting the once-thick ice.

From others, there is criticism, saying truck never should have been out there in the first place.

John Davis of Muskegon was one of many who saw the whole thing unfold.

“He was doing about 40 or 45, and the further he started getting, his truck started sinking down,” says Davis. “The next thing I know, his truck’s in the water, and they’re bailing out of the truck.”

Knowing there wasn’t much he could do Davis snapped a few memories.

“(It’s) a good thing to show your kids to let them know it’s not a good thing to take your vehicle on the ice,” he says.

Word of the submerged truck spread quickly; many came just to watch.

Some say the excitement started with a tow truck and an attached plow heading towards the truck.

“He got approximately 25 feet from the boat launch there, and he just sank right down,” says Davis.

So after another truck pulled him out, the two set up in a backyard, several hundred feet above the truck.

Several hours went by and crews were making little progress.

“We did have one guy as he was working around the loose slush ice in the back, he did slip through,” says John Jurcich of the Michigan D.N.R.. “He was able to grab a hold of the truck and that’s why we’re keeping a number of people here to assist with any possible problems.”

As hours past, the sun fell, as did the temperatures.

“It’s making it more difficult because the slush is freezing just about as fast as they’re working and with tomorrow’s weather coming it’s going to be even a more difficult process,” says Jurcich.

So overnight, the lake claimed victory.

Meanwhile, John Davis says common sense does not.

“I’ve seen them out here with the snowmobiles and the quads and that’s fine, but when you get to a truck that’s common sense.”

The tow truck companies worked more than 6 hours trying to get the Chevy out of Wolf Lake on Saturday.

If the owner, who did want to be identified, was not able to get the truck out in a reasonable amount of time he could have faced littering fines up to $2500, removal costs and environmental damage costs.

Watch The Movie

Full story at wzzm13.com

Are you ever worried that the ice on Fox Lake may be too thick?

Get one of these babies and you will never have to worry about that any more! If it looks a little heavy, don’t worry because you could drive a Semi on ice as thick as the one in the movie below.

Check out more fun fishing stories on the Fox Lake Fishing Forums

2008 FISH JUDGING WINNERS FOR THE
48^th annual ice fishing derby

Clothing
Naturally you should choose clothing that provides protection from low air temperatures, wind, and precipitation while at the same time allowing you mobility. But in addition, when you select clothing, keep in mind the possibility of falling through the ice. Clothing that would severely restrict your ability to swim or to stay afloat is not a good choice. Hip boots or waders should never be worn, as they can fill with water and restrict movement while adding weight. A personal flotation device (PFD) should be worn. This can be a vest or jacket, either inflatable or aturally buoyant.

Equipment
Include items for testing and measuring the ice thickness, as well as items for rescue or self-rescue. In the first category are a heavy ice chisel, an ice drill or auger (manual or powered), a measuring tape or stick that can be hooked under the bottom edge of the ice in an auger hole, and possibly a perforated ladle for cleaning ice out of the auger holes. In addition to the PFD, bring a rope or rescue throw bag containing a rope that floats. Ice rescue picks sold for ice fishermen are an excellent idea. They thread through your jacket sleeves like children’s mittens and are immediately available in an emergency for pulling yourself out of the water onto the ice.

Procedures

• Never go out on an ice cover alone, and never go out on the ice if there is any question of its safety.
• While you are planning the outing, obtain the record of air temperature for the past several days and continue observing air temperatures while the ice will be used to support loads.
• Always let someone know of your plans and when you will return.
• When you arrive at the water’s edge, visually survey the ice. Look for open water areas, and look for signs of recent changes in water levels: ice sloping down from the bank because the water dropped, or wet areas on the ice because the water rose and flooded areas of the ice that couldn’t float because it was frozen to the bottom or the banks. (If the ice is snow-covered, look for wet areas in the snow.)
• Listen for loud cracks or booms coming from the ice. In a river this can mean the ice is about to break up or move; on a lake larger than several acres such noises may be harmless responses to thermal expansion and contraction.
• Look for an easy point of access to the ice, free of cracks or piled, broken ice.
• If you are taking a vehicle or other equipment on the ice, go out on foot first. Vigorously probe ahead of yourself with the ice chisel. If the chisel ever goes through, carefully turn around and retrace your steps back to shore, and try again some other day.
• Near shore, listen for hollow sounds while probing. Ice sloping down from the bank may have air space underneath. This is not safe; ice must be floating on the water to support loads.
• After getting on the ice, others in the group should follow in the leader’s steps, but stay at least 10 feet apart.
• Only after you have learned the characteristics of the ice cover should any vehicle be taken on the ice.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE ICE
Once on the ice it is time to begin more systematic observations of the ice sheet you want to use to support a load. There may be many variations in the structure, thickness, temperature, and strength of a floating freshwater ice sheet.

How thick is the ice?
This is determined by drilling holes with the drill or ice auger. The technique is to drill a hole and check the ice thickness every 150 feet or so along the intended path. This should be done more frequently if the ice thickness is quite variable. Note whether the ice in each hole is clear (sometimes called black ice) or white (due to air bubbles—sometimes called snow ice). Measure the thickness of both kinds.

On rivers the ice thickness and quality can change a lot in a short distance; be particularly alert to variations in ice thickness due to bends, riffles or shallows, junctions with tributaries, etc. For both rivers and lakes, warm inflows from springs can create areas of thinner ice. The ice near shores can either be thinner (due to warm groundwater inflow or the insulating effect of drifted snow) or thicker (due to the candle-dipping effect of variable water levels).

Measure the snow cover thickness on the ice cover; significant variations in thickness may mean highly variable ice thicknesses.

How thick does it need to be? A simple formula to estimate the minimum ice thickness required to support a load is

If the air temperature has been abovefreezing for at least 6 of the past 24 hours, multiply the load by 1.3 before you use the equation (or use the lower dashed line on the graph), obtaining a larger minimum ice thickness to account for any possible weakening. If the air temperature stays above freezing for 24 hours or more, the ice starts losing strength, and the equation, figure, and table no longer represent safe conditions. Stay off the ice!

You are likely to encounter cracks in the ice. Cracks are either wet or dry. If they are dry, they do not penetrate the ice sheet and are not a concern. If they are wet, multiply the load by 2, as shown on the graph, before you use the equation to obtain the required minimum ice thickness.

If you plan to leave a load on the ice for extended periods, usually more than two hours, multiply the load by 2 (as shown by the upper dashed line in the graph) before you use the equation to find the required minimum ice thickness.

SAFE OPERATIONS ON THE ICE COVER
If using an enclosed vehicle, alwaysdrive with the windows or a door open for quick escape.

If you drive across wet cracks, your path should be as close to perpendicular to them as possible, instead of parallel to them.

A load deflects the ice slightly into a bowl shape. When you drive on floating ice, this moving bowl generates waves in the water. If the speed of the waves equals the vehicle speed, the ice-sheet deflection is increased and the ice is much more likely to break. The problem is more serious for thin ice and shallow water. In general you avoid this danger by driving below 15 mph.

When there are two loads on the ice, the safe distance between them is about 100 times the ice thickness at the required minimum thickness. This is shown in the third column of the table. When the two loads are different, choose the spacing shown for the larger load. At ice thicknesses greater than the required minimum, this spacing can be reduced.

A loaded ice sheet will creep, or deform, over a long period of time, without any additional load. If an ice sheet has to be loaded for a long period, drill a hole near the load. If the water begins to flood the ice through the hole, move the load immediately. Remember this if your vehicle ever becomes disabled: if left for a few days, it may break through the ice as a result of long-term creep.

IN CONCLUSION…
Be sure you understand this information. Don’t hesitate to seek the advice of others whose experience you trust. Be safe out on the ice!

Also I never go out there without a set of ice spikes, they are life savers if you ever fell through.

Paul